Elizia black lingerie set Volkmann reports from ParisHosting the two events along side each other shows the complete story of the relationship between the textiles and lingerie and swimwear sectors.
The spotlight this session was on embroidery at this edition of Interfiliere Paris. With Bischoff winning the”Lingerie Designer of the Year”by Interfiliere de Paris (January 25 – 27th), and new technologies driving a new wave of embroidery design and the incoming trends in lingerie and ready to wear design it seems as if this industry will be coming out from the shadow of lace. The line between textiles and garment manufacture is closing.
Textile companies will be working in closer partnership with designers in imitate apparel.
Focus on Embroidery:The Exceptions Space in the show showcased Bischoff, Textil AG, Union where new techniques such as thermo-cutting, embroidering with unusual textiles such as denim, leatherette for a tweed style embroidery effect, use of real 3D and faux 3D effects are part of key incoming trends for both SS15 and into AW15. Advancements in Guipure and hot needles can make embroidery complete fabric with incredible potential for customization, design, use of yarns from the finest silk synthetic to higher gauge yarns such as cashmere. The new softer metallic yarns mean they are coming back for both SS15 and AW15 trends. Luxury embroidery sees the use of silk, cashmere 14 carat gold.
Macro-trends in textiles and lingerie:Identity through DetailsOne trend forecaster suggested that as the global population continues to boom to an estimated 9billion people on the planet there will be demand for details that set us apart. The new consumer seeks differentiating individuality from all their clothes. The impact on manufacture is already being felt in terms of increased orders but lower bulk per order place more pressures on manufacturers and driving creativity, moving towards”micro-ordering”which is changing how yarn suppliers to the knitting, embroidery lace industries operate with Far East Mills European warehousing.
Details being demanded range from improved yarns and fabric print patterns, textures, trims, edging and fastenings etc. Creativity refined detailing will be a market differentiator for manufacturers.
Physical 3D Trompe L’Oeil – 3D such as the milli-fiori effect that embroiderers Ricamificion Paolo created for the exceptions with cut out flowers embroidered onto super fine tulle. 3D can be either actual multi-layered and stand out elements including beading and gems or be optical illusions.
Digital photo-printing of 3D objects such as gems, flowers etc. will have more optical depth. Lace and embroidery can now create multilayered 3D effects in a single soft layer. Consumers want complex effects but want the smoothness than the new yarns and single fabric layer can offer so embossed embroidery will be popular as will optical laces embroidery creating illusions of multi-layered textures patterns.
Comfort Zone:Home wear continues to grow, comfort is key. The onesie is here to stay. Clothes for relaxing an indoor living are seeing continued steady growth for both the male and female markets. Consumers continue to demand soft, fleecy and tactile, as life becomes more stressful clothes that provide reassuring comfort are proving market winners. Home wear that can also be worn out doors is an area of demand. which is good news for jersey knitters. R D into super soft but strong resilient multi-way stretch fabrics with attractive finishes is the way forward Intelligent fabrics that can manage moisture, enhance skin health and increase comfort will be in demand in the future in the higher sectors of the market.
Luxuriate at home:Natural luxurious soft fibres such as cashmere, silk and high quality cottons in jerseys will be desirable. Exploring new luxury jersey fabric offerings to the mid and luxury sectors are on the horizon.
Colours remain natural, prints for summer wear and stripes and more playful fun looks will be lead by print designs seen on the catwalks.
Smart at home:With the rise of menswear and the British style the men’ lingerie sector is set to benefit from the downstream effect and gain at boost. Young men have a renewed interest in dressing gowns and pyjamas. Men demand quality, cotton well finished well made. Details such as piping, embroidered motifs and attention to fashion, with an eye to classic textiles of the past such as stripes, prints and paisley. The two main looks are the British Gentleman re-discovered and the Modern man who want natural fibres and simplicity. There will be opportunities for luxury too with silk, cashmere and merino super fine jersey and wovens.
Sexiness re-definedThis new female focused sexiness is a key development and one designers and manufacturers need to embrace. The push-up bra is back but not as extreme as the 1990s Wonderbra sensation. Wires are being concealed or enclosed so forms are more subtle, flowing and curvaceous. Styling sexiness is about simple elegance, voluptuousness, wealth and confidence.rhinestones, playful elements in the more rich palettes. Dots, flocked dots, bows, flowers. 3D flowers over printed flowers giving a sense of depth without bulkiness.
For a youngerblack lingerie set lighter alternative the basket wear and macramé that has been seen on fashion run-ways translates into lingerie and swim wear in print form and some textiles.